There are some places in the world which commune directly with heaven. Even if you are an atheist, you feel the energy building up around. The big trees, the green expanse, the blue mountain, the chattering wind and the sea all whisper the same mantra to your wearied senses.
Come to Kunnumpara Subramanya temple in Trivandrum. The flight of stairs uphill under a scorching sun may wilt you, but the ashram on the way comes as a welcome relief. “This is the room where Sreenarayana Guru had taken rest,” says a sanyasin, welcoming me inside to show the bed and the chair, Guru had used. It is noon. The invitation for having prasadam has to be accepted with reverence. Rice with a couple of vegetable dishes thrown in makes my lunch delectable.
Time to resume the uphill journey. “The temple was built by the Guru more than hundred years ago,” says Shaji Sharma, the temple priest. “But no one is taking care of it now.” The cloudless sky where the sun blazes, the barren rocks which deflect heat… we continue our walk. Soon I see the temple way up at a distance. The gates are closed.
As I reach the place where the temple building is situated, I feel the vibes of divine serenity. Two boys are sleeping inside the mandapam before the sreekovil. We almost run towards the shade of a bunyan tree. Turn around, and you will see one of the most beautiful sights in the city. Against the backdrop of the Arabian Sea, the temple stands meditatively.
Early mornings and evenings, people would come here for yoga and meditation on a large rock in the backyard. “Evening is the best time. You should see the sunset,” Sharma says.
I want to see its starry nights.